Saturday, January 31, 2015
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Building Entrance Design 2757
Heres one of the "special projects" that is typical for us. Above you will see an image of a fairly nondescript building which is located on the water in Greenwich, Connecticut. We were asked by the owner to create an entrance with a nautical theme.
Heres what was selected from a number of proposals we submitted.
There will be sliding doors to the small terrace from the executive offices on the second floor. The terrace overlooks the harbor.
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1 of the nice things about building your own personal boat from a kit would be the truth which you can often save a considerable quantity of money whilst adding flexibility for the style, construction, and functionality of ones completed vessel. Unfortunately, several men and women may not possess the area necessary to store and develop a boat. Creating your own personal boat also takes the proper tools and, needless to say, a lot of time to invest in the project. The very good news for a lot of men and women is the fact that you will find skilled boat builders who can be hired to help by assembling the boat for you. You can also hire a boat builder to just place part of the watercraft with each other and leave you to accomplish a few of the finishing function.
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Friday, January 30, 2015
102 World Cruising Sloop Under Construction in Thailand
Silver Lining, currently under construction at Phithak Shipyard in Satun, Thailand, is an S&S-designed 102 sloop with an interesting background. Design work originally began back in 1998 at S&S in New York, intended for a limited production run at a major shipyard in China. Halfway through the original build, the shipyard abandoned the project - leaving the completed aluminum hull and superstructure out in their storage yard.
Finally in 2008, an ambitious new owner took possession of the existing hull and all design and engineering information that had been completed to date. The hull was moved to Thailand, where she is now scheduled for completion this fall. All hull welding has been re-done to comply with ABS standards, systems have been updated for 2010 standards, and a modern new pilothouse was built to update the aesthetic of the yacht. Its wonderful to see this S&S yacht finally get the attention and care she deserves, and we hope she creates for her new owner and his family many happy cruising memories!
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New York Classic Week 2010
America II and Northern LightLast Friday I sailed onboard Blackwatch (design #218) in the Verrazano Bridge Race. It was very wet! Rainy and windy, we experienced the tail end of the tropical storm that had pounded New York throughout the night.
We spent the day chasing two 12-meter racing yachts around the race course, both S&S designs. Northern Light, (design #239, classic 12-meter, built in 1938) and America II (design #2500, modern 12-meter built in 1984). Northern Light is the boat with the tan sails above and America II is the boat with MOET written on the main sail.
By the time we got down to the leeward mark at the bridge we were seeing gusts of 30 knots. It never ceases to amaze me how much punishment these old classic yachts can take. After rounding the mark we tacked away from the 12s and experienced a terrible override on a primary winch. This locked the sheet with the genoa at centerline or a bit to windward and there was not a lot we could do. The helm was unresponsive and the boat was well heeled with water up over the side deck. A crew member finally cut the sheet and the sail tacked and the boat came back on her feet and off we went.
Blackwatch Chasing Northern LightHere we are back at the dock after racing.
Thursday, January 29, 2015
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How to material body angstrom wooden boat model Document Transcript.
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Wednesday, January 28, 2015
Grand Banks 47 Classic Design 2697
Heres the Grand Banks 47 Classic. The boat distinctly retains the styling of the older 42 Classic but is designed to run efficiently at much higher speed. The boat does 20+ knots with the standard CAT C7, 455hp engines. Larger engines are offered.
The old GB42 classic was a very successful design. Over 1,500 boats were built.
Here are some interior shots. All images courtesy of Grand Banks.
Main Salon (Looking Aft)
Main Salon (Looking Fwd)
Galley
Passageway
Master CabinLOA 46-9"
LWL 44-1"
Beam 15-9"
Draft 3-10"
Local Sunset
Nearing Llantwit on the return trip a couple of guys were enjoying some cliff diving.
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Design 583 Chiriqui
Although listed as a motorsailer in our plan files, this boat is clearly a sport fishing motoryacht to me, due to the relatively small amount of sail area. The real giveaway is that the drawing of her profile is in fact entitled Outboard Profile instead of Sail Plan. Also, please note the two fish fighting chairs in the cockpit.
Chiriqui was designed and built for Colonel Edwin M. Chance of Philadelphia. She was built by Morton Johnson of Bay Head, New Jersey and launched in 1946.
Here are the plans. I apologize that the general arrangement is not in very good condition.
This "proposed" arrangement for the lower deck is probably not what her final configuration was, but is probably pretty close, and readable.
LOA 59-7"
LWL 52-6"
Beam 13-10"
Draft 4-9"
Tuesday, January 27, 2015
Passage doors
There are five wooden passage doors in the lower cabin area between the various rooms. The master cabin has an entrance door, the kids dressing room has an entrance door, the kids dressing room has a door leading to the bunk room, and both the master cabin and kids bunk room has a door leading to the common bathroom. Im narrowing down the names for the boat and at the top of the list is: " I"m glad I did not bid this job since this turned out to be a ton more work that Id figured". It might be hard to get that name to fit on the transom, but hopefully you get the jest of my lame joke and how much work went in to the passage door project. In all seriousness about a boat name, every time I think of naming her, I keep hearing Neil Youngs opening guitar salvo of the song "Homegrown" so Im keeping that name on the boat name list as she is totally homegrown/ built.
The first order of business on the passage d
oors was deciding on the method of construction. I could have made things easy on myself and gone with plywood slabs for doors. I really did not want the look of the plywood slab, so I quickly ruled that method out. I know I wanted a frame and panel door so I just needed to work out some construction issues. My cabinet frame and panel shaper cutter set seemed like the obvious choice to build these doors, but the more I got to thinking about it, the more I started to think that method would not be robust enough for passage doors. Ththe set of cutters I have is made for 3/4" thick stock. I was having doubts I could get 3/4" stock to stay flat on a door that was going to be over 6 tall. I was also concerned that the cope and stick pattern of the cutter would not give enough glue area on the joints to be able to handle a the violent slamming these large doors might see once we are at sea. Also, the shaper cutter set is tooled to form a 1/4" groove, so 1/4" plywood or raised panels would have to be used for the door panel. I did not want to use raised panels due to 
the environment of below deck relating to wood movement and also the amount of wood Id have to use, so I had to consider 1/4" plywood. The problem with 1/4" plywood is that it is only good on one side so Id end up with a door with one good veneer side, and a not so good side. If I were going to use the cabinet door shaper cutter set, I would also have to consider reinforcing the joint with dowels to give the door a fighting chance of surviving life at sea.
I have been bouncing ideas of door construction off of a builder/cabinet maker I work for, Ted Lenord of LTS builders, and he kind of went along with my fantasy of getting these doors built fast and cheap, but I think he tired of me dragging this out and one day told me "listen up MO FO, youre either going to do this job half assed or your going to do it the right way and build a mortise and tenon door." Ted was right so I decided upon the mortise and tenon method.
I started picking through my stack of air dried Cherry, and soon realized I did not have enough stock to make all the styles and rails I needed since I wanted the style and rail thickness to be 1 1/4". I for sure did not want to pay retail for this amount of lumber so I decided to laminate material together to get my 1 1/4" thick stock. I had a four inch H beam in the shop so I used that as my surface to clamp the plys to for my laminating process. I decided to use two plys for the lamination. The laminating process was pretty straight forward as I would pick my stock, straight edge it and rip, plane to thickness, then rip a thinner piece to make the final laminate. I would then pick the best sides, make sure the grain went opposing directions, spread glue with a paint roller then clamp both plys to the H beam. I only had enough clamps to do one piece at a time, so getting all e stock laminated took me almost 10 days. W hen I removed the stock from the form, I jointed one edged straight, then ripped to the final width and jointed the ripped edge
. I waited to plane to final thickness once I was getting closer to assembling. Laminating in this method made for a board that was straight as string across all faces and also incredibly stiff. Im hoping that this will also make for a more stable door that will handle the moister levels an ocean going, tropical traveling boat will experience.
Once all the stock was jointed and planed to final thickness I could then plow the groove for the panel. I decided to use 1/2" Cherry plywood for the panel. I plowed the groove in the center of the styles and rails, stopping short on the the end of the style so the groove would be hidden. I used a stacked Dado cutter on my table saw to plow the panel groove.
The next step was to decide how I was going to cut the mortises . On projects past, Ive cut mortises with a drill press, then used a chisel to clean out the mortise. Ive also used my router mounted in a home made router table using an up cut spiral bit. For this job I decided to use my mill and a 1/2" up cut spiral bit. The mill was a nice tool to use for this for a couple of reasons. Reason number one is its quiet compared to a router. The best reason I like about using the mill is the precision I get with it. I have way too much time and resource involved in laminating my stock, and I really dont want to be making a mistake due to lack of precision or careless measuring. The depth of all the mortises was 1 1/4", and I was able to do that in two passes by maintaining a slow, constant feed using the mills hand crank table. It also helped that the tool was new and razor sharp, and that I was able to keep the mortise cleaned out while cutting it by using my shop air compressor.
To cut the tenons I again used the stacked dado cutter in the table saw. With the amount of time I had in laminating my stock, I was super cautious about cutting the tenons. I measured the thickness of the stock using a caliper, subtracted the tenon thickness, then divided by two to get the height of the shoulder cut. I then dialed in the height of the dado cutter and ran a test piece so I could accurately measure the cut with the caliper. Once I was sure of the depth of cut, I used a dial indicator to lower the cut a few thousandths to make sure my tenons finished out at least ten thousandths over 1/2" or .510. My goal with the tenon was to make sure I had a snug fit that would require a little work with a rasp and block plane to get a perfect fit in the mortise.
Having each mortise fit to its particular tenon, I dry fitted all of the doors. This last picture only shows four doors. The door not show is my prototype door, and is already installed on the boat. I"ll post again shortly after I have the doors glued and when Im ready to start hanging the doors on the jambs. I"m going to pre-hang the doors on their jambs to make installation easier. Ive yet to decide upon hardware but Ill discuss that more in my next post.
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Monday, January 26, 2015
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Fiberglass Fill Coat
Since by now we are grizzled veterans of fiberglassing, the work was not so stressful and only required a team of two -- one person to mix and deliver the epoxy to the other person who is applying it with a dense foam roller.
We had to work quickly on a hot day to apply the epoxy before it kicked off.
Then we went around and brushed over any drips or places where it was funky. We had varying success preventing drips. Later we noticed plenty of places where it required work with a sander to make sure the next coat was smooth.
Each day after we finished a fill or finish coat we were pretty sure our work was done and that the texture of the underlying cloth was invisible.
And each work day when we returned, we could still see the texture of the cloth through the previous coat. So we were obligated to add another finish coat. Rinse. Repeat.
Itll Float
One of the sheets of plywood used for most of the bottom is significantly lighter in color than the others, but since the bottom will get painted, it will not matter. Sunday, January 25, 2015
Ranger Boats
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The worlds largest recreational boat manufacturer. Ranger is a major sponsor of the Wal-Mart FLW Tour of bass fishing tournaments; the tours initials are taken from Wood, and its championship event is named the Forrest Wood Cup.
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