Flush Cutting
Helenas simple radiator cover posed several challenges to the newbie woodworker, not the least being: how to cut the many front strips perfectly flush with the sides?
The more I worked on this project, the more I recognized that straight, square lines were critical to the look of the finished piece. I normally like to round-off edges, even just a bit, to to soften them, and because paint and varnish are most likely to crack on sharp edges.
But the look of this cover seemed to depend on nice, crisp lines. I had to saw the ends of the strips off squarely, so theyd be perfectly flush with the sides.
But how? Every time Id tried to saw something -- like screw plugs, for instance -- flush, the saw teeth had scratched the surface all around. I certainly didnt want to do that with this piece.
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Strips need to be trimmed flush |
It took a bit of digging on my part, but I eventually discovered that, yes, there was a tool for that, and had been for hundreds of years: a flush cut saw.
On most saws, the teeth are bent outwards slightly, alternating to the right and left. This set, helps the saw make a cut that is wider than the saw, so the saw blade doesnt get stuck in the cut.
The teeth on flush-cut saws are not set, so -- theoretically, anyway -- when the blade lies flat on wood, the teeth dont dig or cut into it.
There are expensive furniture-making flush-cut saws, but Japanese style flush cutters are now popular and relatively inexpensive, so thats what I opted for:
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The tool of the job: flush cut saw |
The flush cut saw makes it easier to do this job without scratching the wood, but not so easy that you dont need any skill to use it. I found it quite difficult to cut the ends off flush without doing some damage to the side, so I taped the side. This lent some protection, but more importantly, served as an early-warning device... when I started cutting the tape, I new I was doing something wrong, and could stop before I did any real damage.
I also didnt try to cut the ends exactly flush... I left about 1/32" of wood protruding from the end... just enough to give the saw teeth a bit of breathing room.
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Saw in action. Tape prevents even little scratches. |
After the ends were cut close, but not perfectly flush, I used a random-orbit sander with 80 grit paper, to sand the ends perfectly flush. This went much quicker than I expected and yielded a perfectly flush cut with no damage to the sides.
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Finished with random orbit sander |
With both ends trimmed, I sanded the whole thing with the random orbit sander, first 80, then 120. I didnt think it needed more sanding that that.
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After a complete sanding... looking pretty good! |
Then I gave it a good oiling, inside and out with linseed oil The wood was very thirsty: it absorbed more than a pint of oil. The next day, I gave it another drink, and it happily took in another cup.
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With a coat of linseed oil. |
Then it was time to carry it upstairs to surprise Helena. Happy Christmas, sweet heart!
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Installed in piano studio |
Actually, its not *quite* finished in this photo, because once I had it in place, I realized I forgot to cut quarter-round bits out of the bottom back corners, to accommodate the molding on the floor, but a few minutes with a coping saw solved that problem, and the cover now fits snuggly against the wall. Id also forgot to trim the center post, so heres a pic with the unit complete:
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Center post trimmed |
So, thats one big project done. Its great to have it out of the shop, finally. Im going to give the shop a good clean up and then start on my winter boatbuild list... and its quite a long one.
Next Episode: Cutting Boards
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